Did you know that storage devices used at the moment have a limited storage life of less than 10 years? Which means you could lose your precious photographs, data, and music. I really didn’t realise this myself so looked further into it, this is what if found out…
Hard Drives have two disadvantages
Mechanical failure can occur any time due to the rotation depreciation.
Data will be vanished due to the earth magnetic field. In most cases the data corruption starts when data is not re-written within 5 years.
Flash Memory: Flash memory has problem for data retention
Over time, the cells will lose their charge state. Approximately 5-7 years.
Magnetic Tape: This is the most common long-term archiving technology
Very sensitive to the storage environment, humidity and temperature must be well-controlled or the tape will fail
Standard practice is to re-build the archive every 3 years to ensure the archive
Solid State Disk ( SSD )
SSD is working on the same technology as Flash memory, hence not suitable as data retention media.
Optical Media ( CD-R/DVD±R/Blu-Ray ):
Optical drive is the most common use data carrier system
The lifetime of optical media is highly depended on the storage environment
Very sensitive for the UV.
None of these storage media lasts longer than 8 years…scary if you have lots of images archived thinking they provide lasting memories that you can come back to again and again.
MDiscs can hold data for 1000 years! I liked the product so much I bought the company…only joking. But we do now sell the discs here. They are genuine Ritek manufactured discs (created by Millenniata) that we get directly from the exclusive UK distributors. They have an anti-scratch surface (unlike many in the market). Please read the technical data and compatibility data PDF below for further information before making a purchase. M-DISC Introduction-Traxdata-R and Final Technical Report1
Traxdata M-DISC DVD Printable
3 x M-DISC in “3 in 1” silver DVD box.
You will need the starter pack if you don’t already own a M-Disc writer.
Starter-kit: LG External slim M-Ready
writer + 3 x M-DISC in retail pack
If you’re interested in purchasing any of these products please drop me an email and I can give you an idea of prices etc
Don’t fall into the trap of chasing more and more expensive camera equipment, instead spend time and money improving your camera skills and editing skills
“Most people think that upgrading their entry level DSLR and spending sometimes as much as $3000 for a new camera will bring their photography to “the next level”. Or they think that a $2000 pro lens will be the difference between amateur and professional looking photos.
The truth is…this is mostly a myth. Let’s take for example a Canon T4i(entry level DSLR) and a Canon 5D Mark III(Pro Level), put them on the same tripod and take the same photo (using 2 capable lenses with equivalent focal lengths) and in most situations, the majority of people you show the photo to won’t be able to see a noticeable difference. However (!), show people an expertly edited/color corrected/color graded photo and then the same photo that either came straight out of the camera or was poorly edited and people will IMMEDIATELY see a HUGE difference. If you don’t know already, most great photos you see out there have been skillfully post-processed and edited in softwares like Photoshop, Lightroom and Photomatix(HDR photos).
To me, it makes NO sense to buy more and more camera gear in the hope of taking better photos while neglecting what in the end will make the biggest difference – your photo editing know-how and skills!” www.learnphotoediting.net
There are many photo editing tutorials online, some are better explained than others, learnphotoediting.net allowed me to review their advanced photo editing tutorials. There are currently 9 tutorials to go through:
Combine the power of RAW photography, Tone Mapping and Color Grading!
Learn How To Create An Alien With Photo Manipulation Techniques!
Turn Your Photos Into Magazine Covers!
Extreme Color Grading
Retouch Your Portraits Like The Pros
Learn How To Create Vintage Photos!
Combine Photo Manipulation & Compositing To Create A Post-Apocalyptic Scene!
Combine HDR Photography & Color Grading And Get Stunning Results!
Color Grading For Wedding Photography!
I found the tutorials to be in-depth and easy to follow. All the images and effects are available to use for yourself and reproduce.
When you consider the price of magazines and the rather vague tutorials contained in some of them, then learnphotoediting.net’s offering is pretty good value for money, check out their sales page to see what you get for your money. It doesn’t cost anything to have a look at their sales page for more info. My communication with the site owner was very possible and very prompt. I only recommend sites that I feel have a good offering. See if the tutorials are of interest to you before you go ahead and purchase. Feel free to ask me any questions if you have any.
The links to learnphotoediting.net are affiliate links, if you buy the product I get a affiliate commission, although this is not why I have featured this product in this article, I have genuinely done so because I believe it adds value for my readers. Checking out the sales page on the end of these links will not incur a charge unless you go through the sites shopping cart. If you do click on the links and decide to purchase the product I would like to thank you for your support of this site via it’s affiliate sale commission, it helps us keep supplying free valuable information for you, many thanks
If you’re keen to learn photography and get more pleasure from knowing more about the subject then you’re at the right place. We have some great articles about photography and some of the key princples that will allow you to take control of your camera and get creative. Like anything worth learning it is important to understand the basic principles first and build on those as you become more knowledgeable and better practiced. Below is our index to the basic knowledge you will need to get started. Once you have a clear understanding of these you will be on your way to becoming a better photographer.
Everybody enjoys taking photos of their children. They are great to look back on in years to come, and are a lasting memory of your child at different ages, passing through different phases of their lives.
While we would recommend you come to our studio to enjoy a professional photo shoot, we feel we should give you a few pointers so you can get better quality images yourselves.
Obviously the better your photography equipment, the better the quality of images you will be able to capture. A camera that allows you to manually set some of the camera controls is a big advantage, but with many parents relying on mobile phone cameras we will progress by helping you get the best with what you have.
Getting better indoor photos
Capturing great photographs is about using light to your advantage. If you’re photographing inside, try to utilise the natural sunlight coming in through a window. Turn the lights off in the room and sit your child close to a window, with the light falling onto their face. Net curtains may not be as fashionable these days as a window decoration but they are perfect for diffusing the light coming in from outside.
Getting better outdoor photos
If the weather permits, photographing outside can provide a variety of backgrounds. Try to avoid direct sunlight, it isn’t particularly flattering if falling onto the face, leaving high contrasting light and shadows under the nose and around the eyes. Try to photograph your child with their backs to the sun, this will give a nice hair light and provide much more flattering light on the face. If you can get your child to play in shadow areas where the sunshine is more diffused, such as under trees or in the shade of a building this will make things much easier for you.
Photographing on an overcast day provides the easiest shooting conditions, giving a nice soft diffused light all around with very little contrast. This will also stop your camera being fooled by the variety of lighting brightness found on sunny days.
Getting down
A quick and easy improvement to your photographs comes from just getting down to your Childs level. Photographing on an equal level will give your photos a more professional look. Try lying down or sitting on the ground to see things from your child’s vantage point.
Zoom in close
Zoom your camera into your child, getting in close and getting intimate shots of your child at play can improve your photos no end. Framing can be more problematic, especially with the shooting delay experienced on phones and point and shoot camera, but practice will help improve this. Try to get a close up of your child’s face removing any distractions from the background. Great photos are about great expressions.
Blurry Backgrounds
If you get in close, you may find blurring backgrounds possible, although this won’t be as effective without the use of more expensive camera equipment. Blurry backgrounds are an effective way of drawing the viewer’s eye to the focused part of the image, which hopefully will by your child.
Photos at playtime
Children are at their most adorable while at play, with natural expressions of joy. Shooting them playing on a swing or in a sandpit, or on their favourite tricycle can provide endless opportunities to nail a playful action shot. With more expensive manually cameras, a fast shutter speed will help freeze the action.
Capture your child’s phases
Try to capture images that are typical of your child at that age. It may be a certain look that they use, a gesture, a particular toy that they play with. When you look back on your photos in years to come, you want to have images where you say, “Aww I remember him/her doing that at that age”.
Hope you find something useful from this article, we would love for you to send us some of your images, before and after implementing some of these tips, if you would like to get some one to one tuition, please check out my photography tutorial page for more information. If you think someone your know would like the tips contained in this article please share it with them, thanks for dropping by…
The first thing I tell students that come to my studio to undertake one of my photography tutorials is to take their camera off automatic and put it on manual.
This means that you can still use the cameras light metering system to tell you what exposure is needed, but instead of it choosing the shutter speed, aperture and ISO settings, you will have to manually dial these in. What this forces you to do is move the dials and take more notice of what each shots settings are.
Knowing about camera calibration
What is important to know, is how the cameras internal exposure metering system works. I am not going to go into too much depth about the technical side here, but instead I want to make this explanation as simple as possible to follow. The camera is calibrated by the manufacturers in such a way that it will give the correct exposure in most situations most of the time. To do this it is calibrated to midtone reflections of light. Which means that things that are midway been the extremes of light//white or dark/black, which make up most of the world we see. Grass, tree leaves and bark, pavement stones, bricks, stone, most of the things around us are somewhere on the midtone range. Snow is on the light/bright side and dark shadow is on the dark end. The camera meter looks out of the lens to whatever you have it pointed at in that moment, it evaluates all of the scenery (assuming you have it on matrix metering setting) gives each piece of that scenery a light value and works out what will be the correct exposure.
The scale at the bottom of your viewfinder tells you where on the exposure scale you are with your current cameras shutter, aperture and ISO settings (check out exposure triangle for more about these). -2 on the scale means you are at least 2 stops underexposed, and +2 means you are 2 stops overexposed. By manually moving the shutter or aperture dial one way or the other you will see the marker on the scale move towards the center. When the marker is in the middle of the scale it is at the correct exposure.
so for illustration purposes we compose the shot we want to take and see that the display indicates two stops overexposed. which means there is too much light using the current camera settings, so we move the aperture from f2.8, to f4 (which is one stop different see aperture for more about stops)
At f4 we are still one stop overexposed, so we move it to f5.6 (below) Now the marker is in the middle, indicating that we have the correct exposure.
Taking the shot would provide a perfectly good exposure at this point (providing there is no back lighting,the sky in the shot could provide a slight misreading of the exposure, zooming into the flower only and cutting out the sky, then taking the meter reading may help this, before re-composing the shot and taking.
If we then move the aperture to f8, we see that the marker has moved to the left my one stop, meaning that the shot is now underexposed and needs more light for the correct exposure.
Finally moving onto f11 shows us we are now 2 stops underexposed.
If you take the photography at f5.6 (using the illustrations above) you will get a well exposed image. If you then shift the camera and point the lens to something else, check the scale to see if the marker is still in the middle, if it isn’t then dial the shutter or aperture in one direction or the other until the marker moves to the center, take the shot and you should have a perfectly good exposure.
Photographing in extreme lighting conditions
Now you are using the meter on your camera to give you an exposure reading, based on the average scene, and as we said before this will work in most cases. However if you are photographing a particularly bright/light scenes, such as a snowy scene than you will have to make a slight adjustment. Taking the photography of a snowy scene may fool your camera meter, which thinks the scene should be mid tone, not as white as it is.
Taking the photograph with the marker in the middle will provide an off-white greyish look to the scene, which is because the camera has been fooled into underexposing the shot. If you dial the marker so that it is showing +1 on the scale this will over-ride the incorrect underexposed reading of the built in camera meter. The opposite is necessary when pointing to a particularly black or dark scene.
Back lighting
Back-lit scenes provide a similar problem for the camera meter. Imagine If you are photographing someone on a sunny beach with blue sea and sky in the background and the person you are photographing is facing towards you and away from the sun, so that they are stood in their own shadow. When you set your exposure and move the marker to the middle of the scale, you will have a perfectly exposed image for the sky and the scene as a whole but the persons face will be very dark, because their face will be in shadow.
Again your camera has taken all the data from the scene and worked out the best exposure for the scene as a whole, it doesn’t know that you want a particular part of that scene (ie the person), who is not in the same illumination as the rest of the scene exposed correctly. So you have two choices, either turn the subject so that the sun is shining on their face and retake, or zoom into the subject with your camera so that they fill the viewfinder, excluding any background illumination. Get the marker into the center of the scale. Zoom back out and retake the shot (don’t readjust the exposure again though). This will mean you have metered on the person and the light level that is on them only. This will result in them being perfectly exposed but the rest of the scene will be overexposed. It is your choice as the photographer what you want from the shot and which way is best for your purposes. Actually there is a third option, which is use your cameras built in flash. Meter for the scene as a whole and use your flash to fill in the subject. This is the best option, providing the subject is not too far away from the camera when you take the shot, otherwise the flash will not have the power to illuminate the subject over a larger distance.
White scene = +1 or even +2 overexpose
Black or dark scene = -1 or even -2 underexpose
Further considerations
Something to bear in mind when you are dialing in the shutter or aperture to get the marker into the middle of the scale on your camera is to think about the speed of your shutter, if it is under 1/60 you will need to use a tripod to steady the shot. Otherwise you will get some camera shake. Alternatively you can open the aperture more so that you can speed up the shutter, allowing you to hand hold. Faster than 1/60th second will allow you to handhold the camera without camera shake.
